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Vietnamese Battle Flags.
     On one particular day, when the French were carrying the flying trips, we got a day off.  Feeling adventurous, Capt. Yai loaded us up in a van for a 20-mile drive northwest of Saigon to the Củ Chi Tunnels.

     Throughout the course of the Vietnam War the tunnels proved to be a source of frustration for the U.S. military in Saigon.  The Viet Cong had been so well entrenched in the area by 1965, they were able to control where and when battles would take place.  This helped to prolong the war and increase U.S. costs and casualties; until America threw in the towel and withdrew in 1972, resulting with the final defeat of South Vietnam in 1975.

Hidden Tunnel Entrance.
Tight squeeze for Western Tourists.
     The 75-mile-long complex of tunnels at Củ Chi had been preserved by the government and turned into a war memorial park, with two different tunnel display sites: Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc.  Both areas being heavily pockmarked with overgrown bomb craters from the B-52 raids that failed to destroy the tunnels.
Me and a V.C. Maiden.
     The tunnels were a popular tourist attraction; inviting tourists to crawl around in the safer parts of the tunnel system. The Ben Duoc site contains part of the original tunnel system, while the Ben Dinh site, closer to Saigon, has tunnel reconstructions, with some tunnels being made larger to accommodate fat-assed Western tourists. In both sites low-power lights have been installed in the tunnels to make traveling through them easier, and both sites have displays of the different types of booby traps that were used. Plus underground conference rooms have been restored where campaigns were planned, such as the Tết Offensive in 1968.
Underground where the Tết Offensive was planned.
Underground Kitchen.
     All in all, it was a fun day for the kiddies, dear reader, especially when I got to fire an M-16 and AK-47 on the firing range.
     Don't forget to bring your ear plugs.
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     Returning to Wednesday, 27th January 1993, as I waited in the 737’s cockpit for my passengers and First Officer at Tan Son Nhat International, I had time to review the events of the past three months.  Aside from the navigation problems, this job was basically dead easy merely servicing two routes: Hanoi and Taipei.  Plus employing decent banker’s hours without the jet lag; meaning I was sleeping in the same time zone and bed each night.   

Me and my Thai crew. Capt. Yai is second from the left.
 
  This receptionist couldn’t keep her hands off my cap.

     My thoughts were interrupted by the arrival of an antiquated-yellow, Russian school bus that had seen better days.  It disgorged passengers, burdened with their carry-on baggage, and as they climbed the air stairs attached to the L-1 Door immediately behind the cockpit, I had a clear view of them out my left side window.  Causing me to marvel at all the crap they were lugging up to Hanoi.

      My view out the side window of the cockpit. 

     Please explain to me, dear reader, why the Vietnamese are hauling bags of rice to Hanoi?  Don’t they sell rice in Hanoi?

     The first Russian school bus left as another bus took its place; vomiting more passengers.  Thus began my passenger audio monitor.  We had two Icelandic flight attendants on board; a male purser (a bit light in the sneakers), and a female.  They were instructors training our Vietnamese flight attendants.  As the aircraft filled with passengers, the male purser’s voice kept going up octave after octave – the passenger’s carry on driving him nuts!  When he reached the shrieking-level, I knew we were almost fully loaded with passengers.

     And, while giggling at my shrieking purser, my First Officer had at last arrived.  I was flying with an Air Atlanta Captain, an Icelandic gentleman in his early thirties, acting as my First Officer (flying from the right seat as co-pilot).  His name was Olaf, but preferred Ollie.

Me and Ollie.
     As Ollie collapsed into his chair, I noticed right off something was wrong.  He was out of breath and sweating heavily; as if he’d been running.

     So why was this so wrong, dear reader?  Ollie should have been taking a leisurely stroll around the outside of our aircraft; looking for damage, proper tire inflation, cracks and leaks.  This was all part of the normal pre-flight inspection and not requiring any running.

     Curiosity getting the better of me, I asked him, “A-Are you okay, Ollie?”

     Taking out a handkerchief, he wiped the sweat off his face, heaved a large sigh, and answered, “I am now.”

     More mystery, so I asked, “What in hell h-happened to you?”

     He looked over at me and grinned, then replied, “You know those sea turtles and crocodiles we’ve been hauling in the forward baggage compartment?”

     Okay, dear reader, stop the music.  For a peculiar reason the Vietnamese are absolutely bonkers over turtle and croc meat; especially the North Vietnamese of Hanoi.  So every time we do a Hanoi run the ramp agents load all the turtles and crocs they can into our forward baggage compartment.  The only problem is the individual wooden crates they pack them in are flimsy as hell.

     So I replied, “Y-Yeah what about them?”

     Ollie continued, “When I was inspecting the nose wheels under the 737’s belly, somebody dropped a crate with a crocodile in it.  Goddammit!  The crate burst to splinters and the crocodile escaped!”

     Ollie took a moment, breathed deeply, and exhaled.

     I couldn’t take it any longer, exclaiming, “Dammit, man!  W-What did you do?”

     Ollie gave me a horrified look, and then burst out, “What the hell do you think I did?  I ran away from its biting end!”

     We sat there for a full minute and stared at each other.  Finally it was too much...we both started to laugh. 

     I laughed so hard, dear reader, I nearly coughed up a lung!

     Three months later, TRAC pulled me and my crew out of Vietnam.  TRAC was losing money hand over fist on this contract.  Pacific Airlines wasn’t paying its bills.

     As I said before, dear reader, the airline business in Southeast Asia is a murky enterprise.  Strictly “Terry and the Pirates” stuff.

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